Corset and swimming-belt chart.



M. M. FRANKLIN.

CORSET AND SWIMMING BELT CHART- APPLICATION 111.1111 DBO. 17, 1909.

1,005,951. Patented Oct. 17,1911.

a a: amma;

WITNESSES IIVVEIVTOI? COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPII (10., WASHINGTON, n. c.

I To all whom it may concern."

State of Illinois, have invented new ment, but all of extremely simplein its construction and perfect also from every other line or themeasurements were taken.

MARGARET M. FRANKLIN, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

CORSET AND SW IIVIItiIBl'G-BELT CHART.

Specification of Letters Patent. Application filed December 17, 1909.

1,005,951. Patented Oct. 17, 1911.

Serial No. 533,607.

The contour of the chart is plainly indicated in the drawing, being ofgreater width than length, and having outline lines inclined at varyingdegrees for purposes hereinafter explained. I

The front edge K of this chart represents a straight vertical line whichforms the straight middle front of the garment.

Extending parallel with the line K are a plurality of dotted lines, 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6 which are designed to represent the front vertical linefor garments of different bust measurements. Thus, if bust measurerequired is 36 inches or less dotted line 1 will form the front or Kedge of the pattern. It bust measurement is 37, 38 or 39 inches dottedline 2 will form the front or K edge of the pattern. The distancebetween each of these rows of dotted lines allows for an additionalthree inches in bust measurement each time. The points indicated at w,:0 m are the upper points of termination of the three bust dartsnecessary in the garment to fit the outline according to the From thetop of the vertical line K to the top of the dart w an inclined line Zmis formed on the chart for the purpose of showing the exact incline ofthe shape of the corset at this point.

The bottom of this chart indicated by the line it represents thesmallest circumferential line in the garment. In the edge 7b of thechart are a plurality of notches 6 6 6*, 6 6 which indicate the width ofeach dart at the waist line, the dart terminating at the top at a2expanding waist line; the dart terminating at the top at m expanding tonotches 6-6 at the waist line; the dart terminating at the top at mexpanding to notches 6 -6" at the waistline.

Lines a, b, and 0 indicate the direction of these three darts as, .92 mbelow the waist line to the lower edge of the garment, and in outliningthe pattern the measure used by the operator is extended downwardlyparallel with each of the lines a, b, c, to any distance required forthe length of the garment. V

Along the upper edge, 9, of the chart is an inclined row of indicatingmarks arranged on a scale and numbered consecutively from 35 to 59inclusive, each of which said numbers corresponds to the number ofinches in different sized bust measurements and Be it known that I,MARGARET M. FRANK- LIN, a citizen of the United States, residing atChicago, in the county of Cook and and use tul Improvements in Corsetand Swimming Belt Charts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention has for its duct-ion of a chart designed to be used inoutlining patterns for such garments as a corset, abdominal belt, or thelike, by the use of which patterns forga ments of widely differentmeasurements may be outlined.

A further object of my invention is to provide a chart formed of asingle piece of material for cutting patterns for garments requiring aplurality of different sized and' shaped pieces in the formation of thegarwhich may be outlined by proper measurements and indications takenfrom this single piece chart.

Another object of my invention is to provide a chart of this kind whichshall be object the proin the method of its use, yet from which thepattern for a perfect garment may be formed, a garment perfect not onlyfrom an anatomical standpoint but which shall be an artistic andesthetic standpoint as well.

A further object of my invention is to produce a chart for designingpatterns for garments which shall be very precise in their exactness,one in which there is a line or mark, or indication for every outline orcontour to be formed in the entire garment, each line or dot or otherindicating mark upon the chart having a relative bearing to indicatingmark, and by following the same according to instructions given with thechart will produce a pattern for a garment having any set ofmeasurements required to fit the individual on whom In the drawings, thefigure represents a plan view of my chart showing every indicationnecessary for the delineation of an entire garment.

This chart may be made of aluminum, cardboard, or any other suitablematerial capable of retaining a flat shape and of receiving andretaining the indicating marks thereon which are necessary for securingthe proper measurements.

measurement.

governs the size of the front of the corset at the upper edge thereof,and the incline of this line governs the incline of the top of thegarment at this point.

5 A plurality of indicating marks numbering from 36 to 57 on the drawing(the numbers 36 to 57 corresponding to the number of inches in differentsizes of bust measurements) at i, and a corresponding number ofindicating marks numbered consecutively from 35 to 57 at j govern thesize of the back of the corset at the upper edge thereof, and are usedin outlining the pattern as hereinafter described. Line h connectingthese two lines of numbers indicates difference in height of back ofcorset at these two points.

Extending parallel with the line of numbers j is another line or row ofnumbers K ranging from 18 to 36 consecutively, which numbers correspondto the number of inches in the waist measure, and which govern the sizeof the front of the corset at the waist line according to the waistmeasurement.

1 is a line of perforations in the chart, having opposite eachperforation a number, ranging from 18 to 29 consecutively, and governsthe size of the back of the corset at the waist line according to waistmeasure- 30 ment.

1; is a straight line of perforations extending through one half of thechart, which line of perforations represents the center of the side dartin the garment, and below the same is a curved line of perforations w,which represents the curve given to this dart as hereafter explained.

The upper edge of the chart along the inclined line from P to 0, andfrom 0 to n indicates the shape of the front edge of the side back ofthe garment, the line tu-s forming the shape of the back hip line of theback of the garment.

I have now described every line, notch number and perforation shown uponthe chart and from this will now explain how my chart is utilized tooutline a pattern for a garment of the class described.

First, the person for whom the garment is to be made is measured, andfor the purpose of this description the following measurements will beassumed: bust 40 inches;

waist 26 inches; hip 12 inches and back 14 inches. In drafting a patterna sheet of paper about 2-0 by 30 inches in size should be used. Placethe chart upon the paper with the edge K parallel with the straight edgeof the paper. The bust measurement in this instance being 40, a line isindicated upon the paper extending from line 3 and marked ib-40.Indicating marks are placed upon the paper corresponding with points onthe top of the chart marked as, 00

m and on the bottom of the chart at 6 6 6, 6, 6 6. In the row of figuresalong the inclined edge 9 of the chart place an indieating mark oppositethe number corresponding with the bust measurement 10, also acorresponding mark 26 extending from the waist measurement row offigures K. Place a ruler upon the chart parallel with the line a andextend downwardly on the pattern about ten inches (this ten inches beingthe same on all garments of this kind). Repeat this with lines I) and c.The chart is then removed from the paper and the ruler used as follows:Place the ruler parallel with line 401O and with a pencil draw a lineextending from the top of the chart downwardly to a point representingthe bottom of the corset which will be found as hereinafter explained.The line just drawn represents the front of the garment. From the top ofline 1O4() draw a line to meet the number 450 on line g, which is thenumber indicating bust measure. Place the ruler at 40 on line 9 and on26 (waist measure) at line K and draw a line on the pattern downwardlyfrom 40 on-line g to 26 on line K, the length of this line is governedby the length of the back measure; thus, if the back measure is 14.inches or less the length of this line will be 6 inches. If the backmeasure is 1&1} inches the length. of this line will be 6-} inches, anadditional one half inch being added to the length of this line for eachone half inch increase in back measure. In this instance the length ofthe back being 14: inches the line from 40--q to 26-K will be 6 inches.From a point at the bottom of this 6 inches draw a line forward through6 to clasp line or line 40 40 at the front of the pattern. This lineforms the inclined waist line.

To form the hip line of the garment place 1 the chart with the point aat the junction of the 6 inch line with the waist line on the patternhaving line P-u on the chart exactly parallel with the front edge of thepaper which will bring the line P-u ex- 1 actly at right angles with thetop edge of the paper. With the chart thus placed draw a line on thepattern from u down line 3 extending this line anywhere from 8 to 16inches according to the length desired for a shorter or longer garment.From the lower end of the last mentioned line draw a line on the patternto the lower end of clasp line or line 40-40 at the front of thepattern. This line forms the lower edge of the pattern. Extend lines a,b, c to the bottom of the pattern. Draw a line from m to 6 and extenddownwardly to the point where line 4040 oins the bottom of the pattern.

Draw another line from m to 6 at the waist line and extend downwardly toa point midway between 0 and b at the bottom of the pattern. These twolines drawn from 00 to the bottom of the pattern form the front dart ofcorset. Draw a line from m to 6 130.

at waistline and extend downwardly to a point midway between 0 to 6 lineat the bottom of the pattern. Draw another line from :0 to 6 at thewaist line and extend downwardly to a point midway between 6 and a.These two lines drawn down from m to the bottom of pattern form thesecond dart in the front of the garment. Draw a line from w to 6 at thewaist line and extend clownwardly to a point midway between I) and a atthe bottom of the pattern. Draw another .lint from as to 6 at the waistline and extend downwardly to a point 2% inches to the left of a at thebottom of the pattern. These two lines form the third dart in the frontof the garment.

To outline the side place the chart on the pattern with perforated line'0 midway between the third dart at the front of the garment and the 6inch line extending from 40-q to 26-K, with point it toward the top ofpattern, the horizontal a line on waist line; Dot in perforations alongline 41 and in perforations along horizontal line 2 and line w. Reversethe chart, placing vertical line 2) on the chart exactly on the line ofdots made on pattern for line i), with horizontal line 2 on waist lineand make another line of dots in perforated line to and along horizontalline .2. Remove the chart and draw a line from the top of the patterndown dotted line 1) to a point nine inches below the waist line. Draw aline along dotted line w at right of '2) and dotted line w at left of ofrom top of pattern down to the end of line 4) 9% inches below waistline. The lines thus drawn from the top of the pattern to a point 9%inches below the waist line forming the side dart of the garment, thehorizontal line of perforations a forming the waist line in this part ofthe garment.

The middle back of the corset is formed of two straight strips of clotheach two inches wide and as long as garment is de sired. These twostrips being straight and in all cases alike no pat-tern is cut for thesame.

The last part of the pattern to be drawn is the side back. To outlinethis part of the pattern the back or left hand end of the chart is used,and the line it which formed the bottom of the chart in outlining thepattern for the front half of the garment, becomes the top line of thechart in outlining the back of the garment. Place the chart upon thepaper in the reversed position just described, and indicate the bustmeasure on line 2', in this instance 40, and at bust size at line 7', 40also. Indicate the waist measure, 26, on line 1", and place anindicating mark on the pattern opposite the figure 48 on line 9, for apurpose hereafter referred to. Remove the chart from the paper and placea ruler on the number in line 2' indi dart of the garmentcating bustmeasure, 40, and across 26 the number indicating waist measure in line1", and draw a line from 26 toward 40, the length of this line to begoverned by back measure. Thus, if back measure is 14 inches or less,this line is drawn upwardly 6 inches from number 26 on line 1'indicating waist measure. A line the mark indicated at point oppositeg48 to number indicating bust measure on line in this instance 40, thelength of this line to be governed by back measure, in this instancebeing 14 inches, these two lines will. extend upwardly 6 inches. Draw aline connecting the upper endsof these two 6 inch lines to form the topof the pattern, and another line connecting the lower ends of these two6 inch lines to form the Waist line on the pattern.

To draw the hip line or side back, place the chart on the pattern withpoint 0 on the chart at the lower end of 6 inch line extending from 40to 26, having edge of chart along line 9 exactly on this 6 inch line.Draw a line on pattern along chart from 0 to n and extend the line atthis angle from 8 to 16 inches below the waist line, according to lengthdesired for the garment.

Referring now to the hip measurement, in this instance 4L2 inches. 4inches, which is occupied by the two straight 2 inch strips heretoforereferred to, and which is the same in all garments. This leaves 38inches as the size of the pattern around the hips. In outlining apattern for any garment, only one half of the garment is designed,therefore in this instance 18 inches is the required size of the patternat the hip line. Measure the pattern outlined for the front of thegarment at a point 8 inches below the waist line, which in this instancewould be 10% inches, deduct 10 inches from 18 inches and 7% inches willbe the measurement required for the side back at a point 8 inches belowwaist line to lit a 42 inch hip measurement. In the pattern for the backat a point 8 inches below the waist line on the last line drawn place ameasure and indicate a point 7 inches to the left of this line and drawa line from left hand end of waist line through the last named mark, thelength of this line to be determined by the length of the garmentdesired. A line drawn across to connect these two lines will indicatethe bottom of the pattern at the back. The lines thus drawn upon thepaper outline the entire pattern for the garment, after which anyskilled operator may cut and finish a garment to exactly fit themeasurements given.

It will thus be seen that I have produced a chart comprising but asingle piece of material from which an entire garment may be delineated,the description heretofore given being followed for any different set ofmeas- From this deduct llu urements by locating said measurementsunder-arm seam line and consisting of two upon the chart in the manneroutllned for converging parts, the upper edge of the chart 15 themeasurements here given. comprising converging parts representingIclaim: the contour of the back portion ofthe pat- 5 w A chart fordrafting patterns comprising a tern, substantially as described.

M single elongated piece of material having the In testimony whereof Ihave hereunto set front edge thereof forming a straight vertimy hand inpresence of two subscribing wit- 20 cal line extending downwardly to thelower nesses. ed e said lower ed e forming an acute'an le Q to tlievertical froi it edge and representiiig MARGARET FRANKLIN" the inclinedwaist line of the front portion Witnesses:

of the pattern, the edge of the chart oppo- MARGARET A. HARRoLD, sitethe front vertical edge representing the EMILY BERLINER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, 7 Washington, D. 0.

